What If You Get Glue On Voice Coil Spider Repair
DIY repair. Search for surround rebuild kits.
No need for the kit if the condom environs is intact and still pliable! Gorilla Mucilage will piece of work fine and brand a strong bond! I used it to repair the surrounds of a pair of the Smaller Advents.
Remove the commuter, and Accept YOUR TIME REPAIRING THE Environs!
LET Dry out AND PUT SPEAKER BACK IN.
Have your time!
Cheers.
My concern was I've read something years agone that said if you don't get the mucilage just correct the piston action of the cone would be compromised.
That kind of stuck with me for some reason.
Cheers, and stay safety.
Mamoru
IMHO, the speaker repair services are commonly good and reasonably priced.
My concern was I've read something years ago that said if you don't become the glue just right the piston activity of the cone would be compromised.
Voice coil. The voice coil is centered in the voice gyre gap, a very narrow gap with tight clearance between the magnet and pole piece. The voice coil is held in position past the spider, the piano accordion looking thing you can run across if you look at a commuter upward shut. Vocalism coil, spider and cone all come together here.
The surround is mode out at the wide finish of the cone. So information technology has leverage and yes if you screw it upward bad plenty it tin push the voice coil out of alignment and if it scrapes in the gap this is very bad indeed. Only this will not happen unless y'all really spiral up and mucilage the surround so everything is all cockeyed and off center. So simply be conscientious and then, no worries.
Kits are for foam replacement. Gorilla should work fine with condom. Sooner better than afterward.
Did the surround tear at all? Or just a make clean separation? The key to a expert repair is prep. You won't exist able to simply mucilage it dorsum on with any adhesive with the old adhesive still on the condom or spider. For the best results that volition concluding, remove the onetime agglutinative, and so reattach. If the environment tore at all, it's pretty much done. It can be repaired but IMO it's not worth it and it would exist all-time to either send it in for a re-cone or get a new driver if you lot can.
It is not that difficult only you volition need a adept surround agglutinative and some patience and some knowledge and feel otherwise you could make a mess of the surround and the cone.
+1 millercarbon. Information technology'south not that tough. Go along it centered as best you tin can and you'll be fine. I did this to my one-time jbl l300 and they're still gilded afterward ten yrs.. Spotter a YouTube vid on it.
I'm not sure it'due south something that should be attempted. Even the slightest divergence off centrality or a infinitesimal uneven tension could be enough to compromise the sound.
Just being cautious.
I removed the solder and blown vocalization roll/diaphragm from my Mezzo Utopia's tweeter and resoldered in identify a new vocalism curl/diaphragm.
It wasn't easy merely I did information technology and it sounds perfect.
Do not use Gorilla Glue. It's permanent. If the surround always goes, which it shouldn't being prophylactic, you lot will have to replace cone and surround, considering there will be no getting them apart. Just buy a proper kit with shims and everything else you need. Information technology's not too hard, but information technology's deff. non worth the take chances of f'ing it up. Use a lazy Susan if you have one.
Remember to put spacers effectually the vocalisation scroll to proceed it centered! Any decent diy kit will include them....if non, 3 or 4 pieces of 'strong newspaper spaced eq in the gap will practice.....
This assumes a complete recone & surround repair, which removes the eye dust cap.
Just trying to reglue the environment to the cone will be an exercise what leads to a Fail. Information technology requires pushing the cone down into contact with the surround evenly while the spider pushes back against yous.
As one who replaces the Entire cone/environment assemblies with entirely different ones of a major blueprint, I would non try to do then without spacers @ the voice gyre gap.
If you've no experience with this routine, I would seek professionals to practice this for you.
As one who has heard the sound of the vocalisation coil coming in contact with the magnet gap....you lot've been warned.
If the qualities of your driver means Anything to you, I'd pass on DIY.
I 'do' this routine....with all the intentions and concerns of brain surgery with pliers, and however thinking of Dr. Frankenstein with his subject area.
Sober, late at nighttime, no interruptions, no rush....and no shortcuts.
If my exhortations hateful nothing to you....good f'n luck, J
avsjerry finally nailed it. You lot have to use spacers within the vox ringlet to center it in the gap which ways yous have to remove the dust cap in the center of the cone. You lot tin not depend on the spider to keep the cone centered as it will rack rubbing in the gap at the back of the coil. What you use will depend on the size of the gap. You lot desire them long enough to protrude far beyond the cone so you lot can pull them out hands when the mucilage is absolutely dry. I am not sure what the all-time glue to utilize is just Gorilla mucilage and Crazy glue are bad choices, besides brittle. I would employ the rubber cement that comes with wheel tire patch kits. It remains pliable
which is what you want. I would contact Dayton (Parts Express) and ask what they employ. They tin can probably supply you lot with everything.
Thanks, anybody.
I recall I will transport the driver to a professional for repair since I'm not certain I can even become a replacement speaker for the Dunlavys should I screw the pooch on this repair attempt.
The next logical question: Who should I send it to?
Thanks.
Thanks for the +s' and the kudos, but MC held the boom...
I just drove it home. ;)
In my unfortunate example, it was one out of four prototypes.
I had expected 'issues', and wasn't disappointed.
But information technology was a stupid mistake on my function, and hasn't been repeated since.
Since Speaker Repair doesn't list Dunlavys, call 1st. Just do, whoever you go with eventually, follow SRs' suggestion:
Remove the driver from the cabinet, and send information technology 'raw'. They'll charge yous for both removal and remount, a simple screwdriver routine. And shipping a cabinet is just heavier and more $'s for packing and weight.
This you tin DIY; PM me for the routine I've used before. I'll even ship you a drawing of the how-to in a jpg or pdf... I 'practise' that sort of thing daily.
I've shipped a pair of JBL woofers cross-country, had them reboxed in mine, and returned in perfect shape after a recone and environs swap.
If anyone else wants in on that, get in line.
Speaker Exchange in Tampa Florida is the best place I have found then far for repairs. Fantabulous work and extremely reasonable if not cheap.
@dinov, and all.....I've really bought repair parts from Speaker Ex/Tampa in person.
Non swanky fancy, they look like an audio 'rehab' facility. Shelves with lottsa parts with folks that know exactly where 'particular X' is....
Email or telephone call....;)
I literally simply our Wilson Watt Puppy five.1 speaker driver cones foam surrounds replaced and used Beak Legall of Millersound. Beak did an Exceptional job.
Cost was $50 per larger bass driver and $45 for the smaller midrange driver.
His adroitness and piece of work are priceless!
You lot tin can remove and post the driver to him (I was shut and drove to drib them off and option them up). If one driver has an upshot, it's likely the others are shortly to follow - I had Bill do all of our cone drivers in our speakers and recommend you lot do the aforementioned.
Highly recommended!
Neb Legall
Millersound
1422 Taylor Road
Lansdale PA 19446-1531
215-412-7700
http://www.millersound.internet
Hi Agree . Nib Legall at Millersound ... I take used him since 1995 . For DQ-x , Mcintosh Xr-5 , B&O , AR ... heck more than than I want to call back ..... Great guy .
be prophylactic
Bill Sohne
Very piece of cake to do:
This video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NpMYZq-qQNo shows an Easy way to go the vox coil centered. You don't demand to utilise whatsoever shims and you will not need to remove the dust cap. This method uses a PC or a phone and a free app to produce a 50 Hz point that y'all can use to be sure the voice curlicue is non scraping or rubbing as you are gluing the environs down to the speaker frame. I have washed this several times and information technology works great. Virtually of the time the newspaper cone seems to almost center itself. Y'all have to choose the correct type of mucilage. For many cones ( paper) Aleene'southward Original Tacky Glue works well. this is easy to find an inexpensive. Just you say that you lot accept a plastic cone, and if this is polypropylene and then that is much more difficult to glue to. See this reference: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/forum/tech-talk-forum/43449-glue-to-polypropoline The Aleene'due south tacky mucilage worked on this for me when I tried it on a plastic cone, but it took a VERY LONG time to go the environment to stay tacked down and I had to constantly exist pressing downward on parts of it that would lift up. If you search y'all may notice a gum that works better on plastic, or go to one of the suppliers of surrounds and speaker repair kits and ask what glue they sell or recommend for plastic cones.
If the air gap has ferrofluid in it, the fluid volition help to keep the vocalism curl centered. If you need to replace the ferrofluid, delight, for all that is holy in this world, use sound grade fluid. A reputable speaker repair service will know and understand how to utilize ff in a commuter. Ask what type of fluid they use. If they say EFH1 or something they got off Amazon, Practise Non POWER UP THE Driver AND DEMAND YOUR MONEY Dorsum. This is not audio grade fluid and will ruin your drivers. I have no experience with Dunlavey speakers, but I would suggest Ferrotec APG L11 as a good substitute for what was in there. Expert luck with your repairs!
- Vanessa
Wonderful! A Vanessa that specializes in ferrofluid. Welcome:-)
I've used Bill at MillerSound. He's fantastic!! And a great guy.
I've done many speakers from 4" to 12".
There are kits bachelor from Simply Speakers or Orange County Speaker Works online, but to name a couple.
Its very important to keep the cone centered effectually the voice coil, or it will rub if the surround is glued crooked. Some kits include dissimilar thickness shims, in gild to keep things centered. That requires cut away the dust cap, centering the cone with shims, gluing the new surround, and replacing and gluing the ,(commonly provided), new dustcap that came with the kit. Employ isopropyl booze and q-tips to clean the erstwhile glue from the frame.
But Speakers,(not affiliated with them), provides full instructions.
I never attempt to do this, because of the phonation coil gap tolerance. I leave it to the pros.
Gabriel Sound in NJ does my Altec 604Cs. Price is reasonable.
I concur with the others, that having them done by a professional is the fashion to go. Similar many have mentioned, you can find someone who'll do a perfect chore, at very reasonable prices. The person I use worked for a speaker manufacture, and when they where sold off he retired. With the amount of work he's doing at present, his status has inverse to semi-retired. Cost for replacing a surround is unremarkably around $50.
What hasn't been mentioned still is the testing of the speaker one time it's been repaired. I'thousand sure about of the pro's include this equally part of the chore - I know the person I use does.
Source: https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/speaker-repair-is-it-easy
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